Turtle Watching in Tortuguero, Costa Rica

The enormous green sea turtles return to the beaches of Tortuguero every August and September to lay their eggs. There are no roadways here and all transportation is by boat or small plane. Last August the planes weren't flying in because of repairs to the air strip. So, I had no choice but to bus it three hours from San Jose to the river docks where I could get a boat to the remote lodge where I was staying. It was an early morning departure (5:00 AM), sans breakfast, the last hour of which was on a teeth rattling, bumpy road, but the moment the boat left the dock, I was in heaven! Speeding along the narrow waterways, slowing down for groups of herons and anhingas of course, and even stopping a few times to watch a three toed sloth and a group of spider monkeys, I felt privileged to peer into this vast rain forest...just from the edge. A trip to Latin America is never complete for me without sighting some wildlife. Tortuguero does not disappoint. Cayman and crocodiles sun on the river banks. Macaws fly above.

The biggest thrill though is witnessing the arrival of a green sea turtle on shore, watching her lay her eggs, and then laboriously trod back to the sea. Although the occasion was a joyous one, our group of seven were solemn, no, reverent, as we followed her, slowly, until she hit the water swimming! Wow! A sight I will never forget!
One is not allowed to just walk the shore at night in search of laying turtles. It is very organized and monitored by the conservation groups. NO pictures can be taken and only the leader of your group may shine a RED light for illumination. Even the red light, which does not distract or disorient the turtle, is only pointed towards the rear of the turtle. Every precaution is taken to insure the safety and successful journey of the turtle.

Historically, the turtles in this area were hunted for their meat. There was actually a profession for many years....Turtle Turner. These men would walk along the shore at night and turn over turtles, which could not right themselves, and were picked up by a passing boat the next morning. Most turtles weigh in at over three hundred pounds! Villagers have learned through conservation to change their dietary habits and have embraced the protection of these gentle giants.

To find out more about the green sea turtle, track their journeys, or to make a donation by "adopting' a turtle, visit http://www.cccturtle.org/ Better yet, join one of our small group tours and see them for yourself! (http://www.latinamericayourway.net/)
Fly in if you can. There is something magical about taking in the scenery from the air. You really get the big picture. Besides, vacation time is always too short. Better to spend those three hours watching leaf cutter ants hurrying by with their loads, or a basilisk sunning, or sipping a fruity drink poolside...or....

More on Tortuguero and Costa Rica later!

Earthquake! Poas, Costa Rica

Poas Volcano is the world's most active volcanic crater. On January 8, 2009 an earthquake registering 6.5, rocked the area of Alajuela Province, near San Jose. The epicenter was located in the Poas Volcano region. The earthquake destroyed 16 kilometers of the Vara Blanca road leading up to the area. 25 or more local residents perished, and many more are missing and presumed dead.

The La Paz Waterfall Gardens are completely destroyed and the animals housed there, well, they were in cages, so... A family of three tourists there fell over forty feet from the viewing platform over one of the four waterfalls, but only suffered minor injuries. Tourists and locals who could hike out to waiting rescue vehicles did so, while others were helicoptered out.

The top photo was taken in September. Sulphuric fumaroles are always present, but on the day of the earthquake reports say the entire crater was bubbling and boiling with fumaroles billowing from all sides. If you would like to aid the displaced population or find out more visit the Costa Rican red cross site here http://www.cruzroja.or.cr/ Our tours have been suspended temporarily to this area. This is a very sad and devastating situation for the gentle people and animals who live there, as well as the destruction of some of the most beautiful, misty, pastoral, scenery in the world, often likened to Ireland. Hopefully, the people and the land will recover soon.